Image: Instagram.com/makeupbymario Makeup and beauty tips and tricks.
Mario Dedivanovic knows how to fill a room. The celebrity make-up artist—one of the most in-demand men in the industry—holds his signature masterclass every few months in different parts of the world.
This weekend, hundreds of make-up artists and beauty enthusiasts, packed an auditorium in New York, travelling from as far as Colombia, Australia and Lebanon, to learn techniques he uses on celebrity clients such as the Kardashians, Chrissy Teigen and Priyanka Chopra.
During the 5-hour session, Dedivanovic demonstrated how much of a perfectionist he truly is—he spent over 20-minutes perfecting eyelashes, and applied at least five layers of eyeliner! We give you a few of his tricks right here.
“I prefer to use very emollient moisturizers, as it allows me to use enough setting powder without it looking powdery. The moisturizer will absorb powder and your make-up will look natural, even if there’s a lot of it,” said Dedivanovic. In fact, this holds true for oily skin, too. He uses Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Moisturizer, applied with a damp wedge sponge.
Cream foundation over any other
He’s a huge fan of cream foundations and uses them more than liquids. “I love creams, as you can go so natural with them by blending them out, or get full coverage,” said Dedivanovic. Plus, the emollient nature of cream foundation means that your skin doesn’t look cakey, even if you apply more setting powder!
Makeup and beauty tips and tricks
BeautyBlender is a blender, not an applicator
The BeautyBlender is like an extension of Dedivanovic’s hand. He uses a damp one along every step of the way, gently bouncing it on the face to blend products from foundation and concealer, to contour. “The BeautyBlender really presses make-up into the skin, making it one with the skin. It also absorbs the top layer, taking off excess make-up, so it looks more natural,” said Dedivanovic. Stop using your BB to apply product, it’s only meant to blend in what you’ve put down already.
Instagram has made sure everyone knows what a cut crease is, but in Dedivanovic’s make-up world, there are no harsh lines. “It’s fun to know [these looks], but no client wants a glitter cut crease,” he says.
His signature is a glowing, dewy face, with colours seamlessly melting into each other. “I love soft and ‘blown-out’ makeup. It has a sexy, romantic feel,” said Dedivanovic.
To achieve this, he puts down thin layers of whatever product he’s using, blending each with a clean brush or damp BB. It’s impossible to overstate how much he blends. That make-up artists’ classic mantra –, ‘Blend, blend,blend, blend is your friend’ –, is very much at work here.
Rethink your waterline colour
Step away from your black or brown kohl. “My signature is to use a golden bronze shade on the inside of the eye. It’s very captivating,” said Dedivanovic. He intensified the bronzed smoky eye he created for the model (who happened to be singer/songwriter Bebe Rexha), by using a shimmery bronze pencil in the waterline.
Dedivanovic has mastered the painterly technique of varying the pressure he places on the brush. “The amount of pressure you use while applying products will ensure how the make-up looks. Start soft and then intensify if you need more. It’s easier to build than to take away,” said Dedivanovic. For instance, as he was deepening the shading in the eye crease, his brushstrokes were feather-light, barely touching the skin.
He sees your amateur one layer of eyeliner and raises you… five. Dedivanovic usually does three to five applications of eyeliner. “Eyeshadows absorb liner, making it look grey after a while. I layer several times so it never gets dull,” stresses Dedivanovic.
He first used a waterproof black liner pencil to define the lash line, lifting the lid gently with his finger, working the pencil into the roots. Over that, he applied a crème gel black eyeliner with an eyeliner brush. Next up, was a coat of M.A.C Liquid Eye Liner in Boot Black, a blendable matt black shade (he prefers matt liquid liners over shiny ones). He gently blended out the outer corner of the eyeliner with a smudge brush. “I want the outer corners to be super soft and pulled out. I like it going from a sharp line on the inside to softer on the outside,” said Dedivanovic. After blending, he reapplied Boot Black to the outer lash line again, to intensify the colour near the roots. Later, after finishing the rest of the face, he went back in with another layer of Boot Black.
Banish the Instagram contour
Even the king of contour urges you to have some restraint. He layers a powder over a cream, but still believes it should look soft and natural. The contour cream in the Tom Ford Shade and Illuminate palette gets his vote as its sheer and buildable. Using the Zoeva 109 brush and gentle pressure, he sweeps the product in the hollow where the cheekbone slopes downward. He works a little bit into the hairline and under the jawline as well. It all gets blended in with the BeautyBlender.
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He uses the Laura Mercier Translucent Loose Setting Powder on a powder puff to set the cream contour and later goes over the cheek contour with a beige M.A.C powder blush (he also loves NARS Blush in Zen), applied with the Surratt Beauty Artistique Sculpting Brush.
Setting powder is the bomb
If you’re wondering about the need to sandwich in a setting powder in the contouring technique above, Dedivanovic explains why it’s essential. “When you go over a wet product with a powder product, it can look muddy. So, set the wet one with a translucent powder first, and then the powder product will go on smoother,” he explains. He even sets foundation on the eyelid with translucent powder before applying eye shadow.